Often times it is easier to absorb short sentences that encourage time and again re-reads. Here are some valuable tips in random order.

1. Like most things in life, people take different roads to get to the same destination. If you talk to a few pro trainers you will discover different methods in approach but the end game is always development of the same hunting skills in your dog. What those pros do have in common is that they develop a program for each dog based on the dog himself. If you train on your own it’s a good idea to follow that lead and outline a program so you teach the right skills and in proper sequence. If you don’t have the knowledge to do that, reach out to a pro.
2. When you begin teaching a new skill, make sure there are no other distractions nearby such as another dog, kids playing, etc. Your dog needs 100% focus on the drill. As he gets older and more proficient with a skill, you can add distractions to help insure nothing will in fact impede his performance.
3. Teach your dog NOT to retrieve your decoys:
   1. Spread some decoys in your yard and walk him through them
   2. He will sniff them but say NO to any further ‘interaction’ with them
   3. NEVER let him pick one up
   4. Then throw a bumper in the middle of the dekes and send him to retrieve it – Use a loud NO whenever he shows an interest in them
   5. Then throw a bumper on the other side of the dekes and send him to retrieve it so he has to run through the group – do not let him touch them
   6. Do this every couple of days until he gets it – then only as a reminder
   7. The goal is complete disinterest in the dekes
   8. DO NOT LEAVE HIM ALONE IN THE YARD WITH DEKES ON THE GROUND
   9. Eventually do the same in water
4. When hunting over decoys make an effort to send your dog around, rather than through, them so he doesn’t get tangled in them.
5. Always stay focused on your dog, especially when he is working at a distance from you. Don’t let yourself get distracted. You want to continually watch the dog so as soon as he does something wrong, you can correct him immediately. And as soon as he does something right, you can praise him. He is depending on you for both.
6. Before you get into specific skill drills in training, let your dog burn off some energy which will help him pay attention and stay focused in the drills.
7. When your dog gets tired, disinterested or confused by what you are teaching, stop the training because now you ain’t training any more. It’s time to go home.
8. Recognize (and admit) when your dog is simply having a bad day. When the dog ‘just can’t seem to do anything right,’ the thing for you to do is call it a day.
9. Even when your dog makes a few great retrieves or perfectly executes a specific skill, stop that drill too. Leave your dog feeling good about himself and don’t push the envelope by giving him a chance to mess up.
10. When training, always leave retrieves in the bag. Never get your dog exhausted making retrieves. Always leave the dog wanting more; especially, a young dog. Your dog may not like it, but you’re the brains. Right?
11. When training simple drills like sit, stay, etc. – and especially with young dogs – it’s a good idea to say their name prior to the command. As example… “Ember, sit.” “Ember, stay.” “Ember, here.” “Ember, no.”
12. Change the location where you train as often as possible. When you keep training in the same areas and duplicating the same retrieves (especial the same blind retrieves,) your dog is ‘just remembering the last time’ rather than honing his skills in unfamiliar grounds.
13. Don’t make all your training sessions training sessions. Got that? Mix in fun runs when you don’t ask your dog to do anything but run around at his own pace (but always under control.) No stress; just fun and exercise.
14. When working your dog at the water’s edge, especially small rivers, streams, bogs, swamps, etc., ALWAYS inspect the water close to shore for blow downs, branches, sticks, and things that a lab could impale himself on by diving into the water.
15. When training, always keep an eye out for any injury your dog may have sustained. Dogs can hide an injury extremely well because in all the excitement they just keep working. Any sign of a limp, head shake, blood (even a little,) a tail hanging straight down, and anything that ‘just doesn’t look right’ should be inspected immediately. Check eyes and ears often.
16. Practice like you play. You hunt in rain and cold. Train in rain and cold.
17. Some training books say, “Do this, this way, and after 10 minutes your dog will have it down.” Don’t set your expectations that high. I’ll be the first to brag about the intelligence of a Lab but egad, nothing happens that quickly. Your dog needs repetition over time when learning new drills and even then he needs continued refreshers.
18. When you whistle your dog to sit on land, or to turn and look at you while in water to get him prepared for a hand signal, keep in mind that he may not take the exact direction in his first few steps. Don’t necessarily assume he is going in the wrong direction. Often times, especially on the back command, the dog will turn and take a few steps left or right before he goes back. Give him some time and don’t immediately yell ‘no’ and blow your whistle and require him to sit again so he will respond to the hand signal you gave him. He may in fact be responding correctly, and he just needs a second or ten to right himself. Be patient. He is not a remote control car that responds to instant and minute adjustments simply by turning a knob.
19. Your dog best learns skills taught in small doses over time. Be patient.